Sink or Swim

"Go For Brocade" Dress Another Adaptation - Part 2

I've realized that my photography skills are worse than mediocre. With the gray blah weather outside, I couldn't get any decent light. Well, you get the idea anyway.

I cut out the dress on Wednesday night. I didn't touch it again until Friday night, when I sewed the bodice front and back, lining front and back, and completed a facings. I then realized I didn't cut out the sleeves and lining. I hunted down the missing pattern pieces, cut 2 sleeves and linings and went to bed. 

Saturday morning I finished the sleeves and the bodice and attached the skirt. After a bit of back and forth, I decided not to line the skirt. More out of laziness than anything. I turned a 2" hem stitched it into place. I also made a self fabric belt and a crinoline. The belt was made with a purchased buckle and belting.  

Initially I was going to attach a slip/lining to the skirt and add a net ruffle to that. Since Ellen wasn't on location to give an opinion, I opted to make a separate crinoline. If Ellen didn't like it, she didn't have to wear it. A separate crinoline could be used with another dress or skirt as well.

I wanted to use cotton organdy but I didn't have enough yardage in my stash. Cotton organdy can be washed and dried and remain stiff and is more breathable than a synthetic. [NOTE - cotton crinoline fabric sold at fabric stores is usually dry clean only. If washed it looses it's stiffness] I did have a 4 yard piece of white synthetic organza. I also found a 50 yard spool of 7/8" wide black ribbon while rooting around. So the crinoline is made from black grosgrain ribbon and white nylon organza. The organza is less stiff but I was willing to give it a try since it didn't require another run to the store.

I read some basic instructions on this blog. A very good tutorial on making a petticoat. A disclaimer - I HATE to gather. Blech. I do it all the time but that doesn't mean I like to do it. After reading through the instructions, I realized that if I constructed the petticoat in reverse - top down rather than bottom up as instructed - I could use the gathering foot on my sewing machine and construct the petticoat without hand gathering. I also realized that the fray check step in the blog was unnecessary if the gathers and seam allowance were encased in the ribbon - there are no exposed edge to fray. And if I cut my strips with a rotary cutter, I can skip drawing cutting lines with a pencil and ruler.

First the math.  I wanted a crinoline 21 inches long (waist to hem) plus 2 inches worth of seam allowances (4 seam allowances). 23 inches divided by 3 equals 7.67 inches which I rounded down to 7.5 as that's easier to cut. I used my rotary cutter and mat to cut organza strips 7.5" wide. On the Sugardale blog, it appears that she cut her strips lengthwise rather than across the grain to reduce seams. Either way will work, but I decided I'd rather use the rotary cutter and sew more seams than use a pencil to mark out 4 yard long cutting lines.

I sewed all the strips together with french seams [French seam tutorial for those needing more detailed instructions]. Using a french seam, there are no unfinished exposed edges to fray. I ended up with one massively long strip of organza. Listen to the voice of experience here - pay attention to which side is the "right side" and which is the "wrong side". You can't tell by looking and it doesn't matter which side you choose. But if you aren't consistent, you'll end up with seams on the inside AND the outside. 

The true time saver here is a gathering foot for your sewing machine - not to be confused with a ruffler/pleater. This is sometimes referred to as a shirring foot. 
Mine looks like the one in this photo... In theory, you can use this foot to gather one layer of fabric and attach it to a flat piece of fabric in one pass. The flat piece goes in the groove, the piece to be gathered (the ruffle piece) goes under the presser foot. In reality, I ran a couple of samples and couldn't keep my seam allowance straight on the flat piece, so I resorted to two pass construction. This is still significantly faster than running two lines of basting stiches, pulling up threads to gather to fit and then stitching.

I lengthened my stitch length to 6 (as long as I could) and ran the organza under the presser foot. Tada! Gathers! Honestly, it's like magic. The downside to this is I don't know exactly how many strips (how long) a piece of ruffled organza I'm going to need. This is highly variable based on the thickness/stiffness of the material gathered and the stitch length used. I had plenty of material so I wasn't going to worry about it. I cut about 3.5 yards of the organza into 7.5" strips and didn't end up needing them all. You could run a sample, measure, and determine the ratio of ungathered width to gathered width and calculate the exact number of strips needed. But that seemed like a lot of calculating for a project like this where I wasn't trying to get an exact measurement. I don't care what the bottom width of the petticoat is exactly. "As full as my gathering foot will make it" was a sufficiently exact width for me.

I put my regular sewing foot back on the machine and returned the stitch length to normal (in my case that's a 3). I cut a scrap piece of 1/4" ribbon to Ellen's waist measurement (in this case 24") to use as the waist stay. This will be covered later by the waistband finish.  I then top stitched the pregathered organza ruffle to the ribbon, stitching through the thread line on the organza as a guide . When I reached the end of the ribbon, I cut the organza ruffle to fit. The first tier is now attached to the waist stay (ribbon cut to waist measurement).

 Now I attached a second row of ruffle to the bottom edge of the first tier WRONG SIDES TOGETHER. The seam allowances will be on the right side of the garment. Stitch all the way to the end and cut the pregathered ruffle to fit. I then topstitched a length of 7/8" ribbon flat over the seam allowances to encase them and prevent them from raveling. This also gives more structure to the crinoline. There are excellent photos of this on Sugardale's blog. Make sure you have both seam allowances under the ribbon.

This process was repeated again for the last (third) tier. Ruffle attached. Seam allowances covered and another piece of topstitched ribbon.  If you run out of organza ruffle, don't freak out. Don't stitch all the way to the bitter end of the pregathered strip- leave  3-4 inches unsewn and set it aside. Cut more strips, seam them together, run the strip under the gathering foot to make more ruffle. Pick up your project and use a french seam to attach this new extension to the free end of the ruffle, then continue sewing. Top stich another row of ribbon to cover the seam allowance between the middle and bottom tier.

What you end up with is some that looks more like an apron than a skirt. The side seam is open. Use a french seam to sew the side seam together from the top edge of the first ribbon band down to the bottom/hem edge of the crinoline - the top tier is left open (no side seam) to form a placket to allow the crinoline to be taken on and off. Finish the edge of the top tier with ribbon folded around the edge [another useful photo from Sugardale] and topstiched. Finish the waistband and add hook and eyes as instructed on Sugardale's blog.

I realize photos of my modifications would be very useful. I didn't take any as I went since I had about 90 minutes to get this made. But I'll try to mock up some samples and get pictures added as soon as I can.  Here's a picture of the my adaptation of the "Go for Brocade" dress with the crinoline underneath. As you can see, the skirt is 'poofed' out but not crazy poofy. I don't think the organza is quite stiff enough to support the heavy brocade of the dress. It would add much more fullness to a dress made from lighter material. Ellen was undecided initially about the crinoline and wore the dress without it. Hopefully it'll get used another time.

ModCloth's "Go For Brocade" Dress - Another Adaptation

Ellen fell in love with this dress a few months ago. It's from ModCloth. It's both pricey at $189 and worse (in my opinion) the dress has several reviews complaining about the poor fit of the bodice. I've been tasked with creating a modified version of this dress before the high school dance this weekend. Yes, I've know about this since before Christmas. Procrastination. It's my middle name.

I am using the bodice of Butterick Pattern B4443 from my pattern stash. This is where you have to use your creative imagination. When looking for a pattern to copy a 'ready-to-wear' item, ignore the fabric, the pattern, the color, and the goofy pose of the model. Look at the seam lines. It's often easier to recognize a pattern that will work by studying the drawing than the photograph.

Ignore the casual fabric, yellow color, the belt, and a-line skirt of the photograph. Look at the seam lines on the drawing of the yellow dress just to the right of the photo. Hmm. Where have I seen that bodice before - princesses seams, a wide boat neck, and a waist seam at the natural waist. The skirt does not match the orginal dress at all, but that's ok. 

This type of bodice is a very common design. There are likely several different commerical patterns available that are like this and likely have the correct skirt as well. So why did I choose B4443? One, I already own it. Two, I've made the bodice to B4443 at least three times. I could sew it in my sleep. Oddly, I've never made this pattern complete with the skirt included. Since I've sewn this pattern before, I already have bodice pieces altered to fit Ellen's narrow and petite frame. Starting with a 'pre-fitted' bodice is definitely a time saver - it's like skipping to the middle of the project before I've even started. My only comment on the fit of this pattern. Make sure to check the armhole and shoulder fit and modify as necessary if you choose to make the cap sleeve version. Otherwise you may have difficulty lifting your arms.

I've widened the boatneck by 1/2 inch or so at both shoulders as well as lowered the center front about 1 inch to prevent the dreaded 'neckline claustrophobia' that Ellen hates so much. The "Go For Brocade" original has a deep-v back. If you want to duplicate the orginal back, you are better off choosing a different pattern than B4443. With the full bodice back  and the cap sleeve option, the B4443 bodice needs no additional alterations for modesty. Even with the widened neckline, the relatively high back should allow the dress to stay in place easily without falling off the shoulder - a plus for dancing.

I'm using a modfied facing (since I modified the neckline) and will fully line the bodice. I often omit the facing entirely and just cut a full bodice lining. It seems counter intuitive, but a full lining is often FASTER than messing with facings. A full bodice lining looks better and feels better to wear - it's a win/win. However, with a heavier brocade like this, I think the weight of the facing will be necessary to get the neckline to 'behave' and lay correctly.  I only have time to do this once so I'm going with my intuition here. I'll be using this shortcut to great linings method adapted from Threads magazine. If you use B4443 without modification to neckline, the facings included in the pattern can be used as is.

But what about the skirt? The skirt on the "Go for Brocade" dress is quite full - especially considering the weight of the brocade -  but appears from the photograph to be a simple gathered rectangle. I don't even need a pattern for that. Measure from natural waist to desired skirt length. Add 3 and 1/4 inches (seam allowance at bodice plus 2" hem with 5/8" turned under).  So I needed 22" + 3 1/4 inch long skirt sections. Ellen is only 5' 2" - a skirt 22" long may be entirely too long or too short for you. This is what I love about sewing - you don't have to settle with what the manufacturer decided the length should be. You get to choose! So use your tape measure. Natural waist to finished length plus 3.25 inches. I need 2 panels the entire width of the brocade (selvage to selvage) and 25.25 inches long. One section left whole and one section cut in half at the center back to allow insertion of the back zipper.

All I had time for tonight was to cut all dress and skirt, facings, bodice lining and interfacing for neckline. I'm using a silver and teal/turquoise scroll brocade from JoAnn's. I think this was $7 a yard and some cream lining fabric of some sort from my stash. I don't know where it came from but I have TONS of it. I really wanted to head over to the fabric shops off Harry Hines but didn't have the time. [Just a small tangent... If you ever come to Dallas, there is an excellent selection of outlet fabric stores, both apparel and home decor, off of Harry Hines Blvd south of Walnut Hill. Yes, right there in the middle of all the topless bars. It's definitely a daylight only area. Most of the fabric places close at 5pm or earlier - well before the 'night life' crawls out and starts shaking. Be prepare to 'hunt and gather'  - few stores are well organized and smaller outfits seem to come and go with the seasons. The two largest outfits are Golden D'Or (apparel fabric bonanza!) and Best Fabrics (home decor and a mind blowing selection of trims). If you like to live dangerously, the taco shack? hut? on the east side of Harry Hines next to the Mexican Bazaar and across the street from "The Lipstick Club" has most excellent barbacoa tacos.]

NOTE - I'm making a version of this dress with small cap sleeves. I cut one set of sleeves from the brocade and another from the lining fabric. I can't remember if the Butterick pattern has you do this or not. It's been too long since I've looked at the orginal instructions. This allows a nice sleeve finish, fully lined, without hemming. That's another win/win. If it's not in the pattern instructions, I'll post a quick how-to here.

That's all I have time for tonight.

Total time spent on "Go for Brocade" Adaptation today: 60 minutes

Total Project Time: 60 minutes

Time to Deadline: 2 days 18 hours

What's For Dinner? Quick Chicken Chili

 

I decided to make a one of my favorite easy recipes tonight for dinner. It's cold and gray outside and chili sounded great. It's pretty simple and uses ingredients I almost always have in the pantry. This recipe started out as a recipe from a Bush's beans label that was almost inedible. It was so bland. Blech. I reworked it to be much more tasty.

Quick White Chicken Chili

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 medium onion, chopped

2 cloves garlic - crushed

1 can of diced green chiles

1/4 cup flour

3 cups chicken broth (canned, homemade, or water and bullion)

2 boneless skinless chicken breasts cut into bite sized pieces

2 cans white beans (cannellini or navy beans), rinsed and drained

2 tsp ground cumin

1/2 tsp oregano

Pepper and salt to taste

Tabasco sauce (optional)

1) Saute onion in olive oil in heavy pot for about 3-4 minutes until softened. Add garlic and saute another 30 seconds until fragrant. Add undrained can of chiles.

2) Stir in flour to make a paste (roux) and cook for 1 minute over medium heat.

3) Add about 1 cup of the chicken broth to the flour-onion-chile mixture. Stir until well combined then stir in the rest of the broth, the raw chicken, cumin and oregano. 

4) Simmer over medium-low heat for 20 minutes, stirring occasionally, until chicken is cooked through. Stir in beans and simmer another 5 minutes or so until beans are heated through. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.

I like to add several dashes of Tabasco before serving and garnish with cheese, sour cream, and chopped avocado. I can usually get this done start to finish in less than 30 minutes. Serves 6.

It's a list day

I am not by nature a list maker. I usually just juggle everything I need to do in my head and cross my fingers that I don't forget anything. Usually that works. Sometimes it doesn't, like the day(s) I forget to pick a child up from school. Today is a list day.

I woke up at 4am this morning with a thousand things to do racing around my head. Since I couldn't go back to sleep - even when I tried - I broke out a pen and paper and made a list. There were two major items that seemed to be the root of my anxiety. The first paying the property taxes for the family LLC. Not that big a deal except that I have to balance the LLC checkbook first which will require phone calls to nail down deposits, and I'll have to call the tax office and get the real numbers to pay since I can't locate the tax statements.

The second item contributing numerous items to my list this morning is my little girl's 16th birthday party on Saturday. It's a Halloween Sweet 16. That sounds worse and worse everytime I say it. I've tons of decorating left to do and lots of shopping. I really need to figure out a birthday present. I may have to delegate the gift selection to her dad. He won't know what to get either, but he solves all gift giving dilemmas by throwing large amounts of money at the problem. As a typical teen, Ellen will be happy with anything that an unholy amount of money.

Now, let's see how much I can get done in the next four hours before Nathan gets off the bus.

Homemade Homebaked Bread Bag

I've been making bread a lot for the past few months. I've made more sandwich bread than anything since no matter how much I bake, it never goes to waste. The problem has been that the bread from my pullman loaf pan won't fit in a plastic zipper bag. It's too long and the air tight quality of the plastic makes the crust too soft. I've tried paper bags, but then bread seems to dry out too fast.

So I've been kicking around the idea of sewing some sort of breathable (but not too breathable), reusable bread bag and get away from plastic bags all together. So what to make it out of? What's the first thing you think of when you think "homemade not-plastic-but-still-air-tight bread bag"? Diapers! What? You didn't think of diapers first? I did.

Actually, I was thinking of the laminated knit fabric my sister uses to make diaper covers. If it's water-tight enough for diapers, it would be air tight enough for bread. It's machine washable. And a couple of sewn seams should make enough 'leaks' that it wouldn't be too air tight.  So I headed over to my local fabric store and bought a yard of "Diaper PUL" on sale for $8. Basically PUL (polyurethane laminate)  is a thin polyester knit fabric with a plastic backing laminated to one side. This same fabric is also used in making washable reusable medical supplies.

So with a tape measure, 20 minutes, and a strip of Velcro I made my own reusable bread storage bag custom sized for my pullman bread loaves. I fashioned the opening to fold over an velcro shut. I used just a square of  hook tape, but a long strip of loop tape so the bag can be made smaller as the loaf is eaten. I decided that this would seal better than a simple drawstring.

It's not perfect, all homemade bread is better fresh than next day, but it's better than either all plastic or paper. I love that it's reusable. I just shake out the crumbs, turn it inside out, and wipe down the plastic side for cleaning. When the outside gets smeared with jelly, I just run it through the washer.  It's holding up very well. The yard of fabric I bought was enough to make several bags, so I still need to make another bag in baguette size and another for sourdough rounds. 

When I get around to it, I'll post a picture.

What were they thinking? Bad high school mascots.

Homecoming had me thinking again about school mascots. There are good mascots (pirates, mustangs, cougars) and there are not so good mascots (clams, earthworms, senators). I'm sure small town Illinois didn't have the corner on the poorly chosen high school mascot market, but we had a couple of remarkably bad ones.

1) If this were a top 10 list, the number one spot will ever belong to the New Berlin Pretzels (IL). Not only for having snack food for a mascot, but for hailing from New BERlin. Not BerLIN like the city in Germany, but New BERlin. Backwards. Accent on the first syllable. I remember those Homecoming floats we built. "Crush the Pretzels!"

2) The Waverly Scotties (IL)  just down the road from New Berlin. Their mascot was a small Scottish Terrier standing on its hind legs and wearing a tartan tam o'shanter. Frightening. Nothing says gridiron domination like a little dog in a hat.

3) The Jordan Beetdiggers (UT) No, they're not from Illinois but from Utah. Someone I met in college was a Beetdigger and I've never forgotten. Just saying it makes me snicker. 

4) The Hutto Hippos (TX). This is a new one a friend told me about. I've been trying to get Evan to make a road trip just to see  the Hippos work their magic on a Friday night. So far, he doesn't see the joy in a 3 hour drive to see Hippos play football.

There are also the Lewisville Fighting Farmers and the Garland Owls right here in DFW. Neither particularly inspiring, but not that odd either. I decided to Google mascots and found this Mascot List. Someone spent a lot more time thinking about this than I did.

Homecoming Mums Texas Style

Not being a native Texan, I was a little shocked by the Homecoming Mum as it exists here in the Lone Star State. I remember clearly the first time I saw one. It's was a many years ago just a few months after we moved to Texas. We were still still looking for our first "real" jobs after college and were living with my husband's parents. Evan's sister was still in high school and had a this huge puffy jingling thing hanging on her bedroom wall. I could tell it was school related as it was in school colors, but other than that, I had no idea.

Alison informed me that this huge ribboned 10 pound spray of all things glittered was in fact a Homecoming Mum. What?  We had homecoming mums in Illinois. It was a mum. A real one. One white chrysanthemum that grew in nature on a real life plant. It was made into a corsage with some blue ribbon.  The only sparkly bit on the entire thing was a small gold football hanging from a blue "A" formed from pipe cleaners. They cost $7 from the local flower shop and every girl had the same one. As far as I could tell, there was no actual mum in a Texas Mum.

Alison patiently pointed out the white polyester petals of a fake chrysanthemum peeking out from behind the 6 inch high impaled teddy-bear-wearing-a-hat in the center. Well, look at that. A mum. I got a huge laugh out of it and just rolled my eyes for years every time I saw one. How does a girl pin something like that to her chest? Is there an unseen mum-supporting undergarment? Ridiculous.

Time rolls on and I'm now the parent of two high school students. This year Ellen wanted a mum. We looked at a few and I almost passed out at the price. Most places wanted $50 to $75 for a base mum that you could additional sparkly trinkets for an additional price. So $125 later, you go home with a custom mum. I'm crafty! Why buy one of these things at all, I could make one for a fraction of the price. 

Well, sort of.

I discovered a store here in town that sells all things Mum. I've never seen anything like it. It was the size of your average grocery store! After you get over the ridiculousness of the entire Texas mum tradition, you start to wander toward the dark side. We all have a little girl inside of us that loves to dress up. Every little girl that knows that "More IS More". Pink glitter plastic Barbie mules are acceptable foot wear. Tiaras should be worn to the grocery store. The little girl inside of me broke free. And that little girl had a money to spend. Fat ribbons, skinny ribbons, silver ribbons. Glitter footballs and Homecoming stickers. Cowbells and silver puffy hearts. Chains of glittering silver stars.  Why stick a teddy bear on your mum, when you can have a bear head wearing a pirate hat AND an eye patch. Who cares if those one-eyed decapitated bear heads only come in bags of 12 for $30?

 
I should have just bought a mum from one of the shops here in town. It would cost me less. A lot less. On the bright side, I had so much junk from my glitter binge at the mum store that I had two of Ellen's friends come over. We all sat around the dining room table with glue guns and staplers and had a blast making three mums. I downloaded directions off the internet and we wove military chains and linked chains like the ones I made in high school from Doublemint gum wrappers. It was a blast. I have enough ribbons and charms left over to make mums for Ellen and several friends for the rest of their high school careers.

All hail the Registered Pharmacist!

I finally got my NAPLEX scores back from the Board of Pharmacy. I passed with flying colors. I'm now an official registered pharmacist and can practice in the state of Texas. Assuming that I fill out yet another application form and send in yet another fee. But other than that I'm all legal. At the pharmacy today I was finally added to the computer system as a pharmacist and started sticking my initials all over things. Cool.

Grandma Trojahn's Frozen Custard

We're in Illinois this week visiting my family. We're having a picnic this afternoon and making my grandmother's frozen custard.  I thought I'd share the love. Be sure to have a crowd on hand to eat this. It makes 6 quarts and it's so good you'll be tempted to eat it all yourself.

Grandma Trojahn's Frozen Custard

3 cups sugar
1 1/2 tsp salt
6 cups whole milk
18 egg yolks
3 tablespoons real vanilla
12 cups heavy cream

Yield 6 quarts.

In a bowl, beat and mix together the egg yolks and sugar until thick. Pour the milk into the mixture of egg yolks and sugar whilst stirring. Pour the mixture into a large sauce pan and heat gently, stirring until the custard thickens (about 180 degrees). Do not boil or the milk is likely to curdle.   The custard will form a film  over the back of your spoon when its ready.  Remove the saucepan from the heat. Leave to cool. When the custard base is cool, stir in the cream. Refrigerate overnight. Transfer the whole mixture into an ice cream maker and freeze according to the manufacturer's instructions.

It's going to be a long day

So after 10 hours of quality time with my pharmacy law book yesterday, I took a break and did another round of what Evan has dubbed "vampire baking". It wasn't due to the heat since it actually rained yesterday. Ninety degrees feels so mild in comparison to the last couple of weeks.

I've decided bread baking is rather like golf. It's a never ending quest for improvement. There's no such thing as a perfect game. You have good days and bad days. My experiment with more whole wheat and an overnight proof for pain de mie was not a success.  It didn't rise enough and was uneven (didn't rise evenly.) This is probably due to the fact that I FORGOT THE YEAST until I had already kneaded the dough. I tried to salvage it by dissolving the yeast in a couple of tablespoons of water and mixing it into the dough along with a bit more flour.

I should have taken a picture. It was ugly. Fat man in a Speedo ugly. I wouldn't want you all to think that I excel at bread baking. Failure is always an option. I guess that's why the a good Bread Baker's Apprentice would measure out all the ingredients before starting. Mise en place. It avoids mistakes like this. The kids ate my Quasimodo loaf in spite of its looks. I'm beginning to think they'd eat anything. Anything other than a healthy dinner, that is.

Last night I tried again with the light wheat recipe I posted a few days ago. I made dough and then went back to studying, punched it down and shaped it, went back to the books, but then I must have fallen asleep. I woke up to a slightly over-proofed loaf of bread. So once again, I was baking at midnight. This loaf did well in spite of my nap. Since the baked bread sat on the cooling rack unmolested overnight, it sliced very nicely this morning.

Nothing like too little sleep before a big exam. I didn't end up sleeping well anyway. Too much stress right now.

So what's on the agenda today?

1. Get up at 6:30 and get Nathan out the door for summer school.
2. Take Nathan to school since we missed the bus.
3. Finish studying pharmacy law. (Finish? Ha. Law school must be a nightmare.)
4. Get some laundry done during the law cram session.
5. Feed everyone lunch.
6. Drive into Dallas for the MPJE (Multi-state pharmacy jurisprudence exam, or something like that)
7. Take the exam and, hopefully, pass it.
8. Get a celebratory (or conciliatory) pedicure for my hooves. Plus a conciliatory Snickers bar if it goes really poorly.
9. Come home and feed everyone something for dinner. It'll likely be scrambled eggs or sandwiches.
10. Pack for our trip to Hot Springs tomorrow.
11. Clean out the car.
12. Get a Rt 44 diet Coke from Sonic. Likely more than one. Actually, move this up to item #3. And #8.
13. Meet up with Doreen in to Centerville, two hours south of town. Deliver Cade (my nephew) to Doreen for a few days until his dad gets back from scout camp.
14. Somehow get the boys to swim lessons from 7-8pm... I think Evan can drive to Centerville.
15. End up at Wal-Mart at 11 pm. It always happens everytime we're packing for a trip.
16. Make a list of the 10,000 things left to do tomorrow.
17. Notice that read email, bake, and update blog aren't on the list.